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Full Version: FS: 1990 Mitsubishi Mighty Max 4x4 V6
2GStratus > For Sale > Cars For Sale
Selling or considering trades for 90's Cherokees or Grand Cherokees. I bought this as a daily driver to keep my Special off the road, and it has served me well. It's a 1990 with 128k, original motor and tranny, engine runs smooth as glass. 3.0 V6 with a 5 Speed Manual. Within the last 6 months I've replaced or fixed: New timing belt, water pump, serpentine belt, alternator, spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, air filter, oil, sway bar bushings, and windshield. I have had the ECU professionally re-built (huge issue with these trucks) with a lifetime warranty. It was done by the best company out there, not some hack in a junk yard. I've added a JVC detachable face CD player and auto-dimming rear-view mirror with built-in digital compass display. I've also addressed the frame of the truck. Several areas have been completely re-boxed, done by a professional welder, not Jethro in his back yard. After the frame was done it passed RI inspection with flying colors. Tires are still nice and meaty. 4WD engages and works well. This thing was a tank this winter in the snow, and they're auto-locking hubs, not manuals like most late 80's and early 90's pick-ups. I've put a lot of love and money (over $2k invested) into this truck but I really need to be able to carry passengers. Also has full bed liner. Now, the "needs". This truck needs two simple things: An O2 sensor, and U-Joints. The U joints started faulting about a week ago. If you know what you're doing, the parts are about $40 for the joints, and an O2 sensor about $60. I just don't have the time right now to get it to my mechanic in Cumberland, and have been using my car so as to not further the U-Joints. The CEL is on because of the O2 sensor (I can pull the codes from the computer at home) and that is the only code. Once again, quick, simple fix. I've worked out the bugs and had the headaches for this truck, whoever buys this and fixes these two things is gonna have a great daily driver with LOTS of life left in it. I purchased it from the original family who owned it, and the original owner was a service manager for a Mitsu dealership for years. Also included in the sale are the ORIGINAL dealership Factory Service Manuals from 1990 for the truck itself. Both the body/mechanical and the electrical ones. I'll also throw in the 250 lbs of sand and gravel bags I used to balance the weight in the snow. I'm in no rush to sell, so low-ballers don't waste your time, price is firm. If I get the U-Joints fixed before this sells, I'm raising the price. Sorry for the long post, but not many people can give this kind of detailed history on a vehicle.

I'm gonna say I am interested, but a few things will have to be looked at first on my end for anything to happen. I have been looking for a decent truck, I really wanted an automatic, but I used to have a 2wd/4cyl model with a stick, and I know how reliable those trucks are. The fact that it's 4wd is a definite advantage.
Just as a question, do you think the u joints would make it back to Jersey, or would it pay to have them changed out there so it's safe to drive back?
are you and the truck in RI? Is the clutch decent?
I think the joints would make it fine down to Jersey. They sound worse at low revs. The higher the revs, it tends to balance itself out better. Clutch is ok, it certainly isn't brand new but I haven't had any problems with it. I may end up getting the joints done though, as I don't want to drive my car to work much more. I have to valet my car and they keep fucking my car up because they like to dick around with my stereo and goose it.
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