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LogicGate
Here is a post I did on the 2gstratus with all the files and things all put together somewhat like a how-to but without the tuning stuff.

***********************************************************
Tuning and ECU Flash

Important Information

Disclaimer:

In tuning there are no guarantees. Tuning can be dangerous and cause your engine to fail or damage, harm to your self and others, including death. There is always a cost, but when things are done safely and realistically you can achieve great results too. This will also technically void your warranty if you visit the Dealership and they check your ECU for codes. Before you go to a dealership always flash the original rom into the ECU.

Things you will need:

* OpenPort 1.3M Cable sold at tactrix
* ECU Flash Program (free) found at Main Page - OpenECU
* Datalogger Software = Allows us to log and monitor all sensor information from your vehicle.
- Mitsulogger (Free) Download link: Mitsulogger 1.6 Alpha
- EvoScan ($$$) sold at EvoScan OBDII Mitsubishi MUTII DataLogger Scantool

* Read/Remove Codes, log basic sensors and much more
- ScanTech OBDII Gen Software (Free) for Tactrix Cable Download Link: ScanTechOBDII for the Tactrix


Required Files before you attempt anything

How to Use ECU Flash Tutorial (You MUST download, read and also view the video)
* ECU Flash Tutorial = http://www.coe.uncc.edu/~jaseward/Club3G.c...sh_Tutorial.doc
* ECU Flash Video = YouTube - How-to flash your Evo ecu using ecuflash
* Definition Files = Download Definition Zipped File
- Download and unzip. Go to "C:\Program Files\OpenECU\ECUFlash\"
- Rename "rommetadata" folder inside the ECUFlash folder to "backup"
- Copy and Paste the "rommetadata" folder from the zip file
- Restart the software to allow the new definitions to take effect. You done!
* Mitsubishi and Other Roms = Various ROMs

Compatible ECUs

Currently with the latest version of ECU Flash 1.34 we are only able to flash:

*68MC Motorola based ECUs
*SH7 Hitachi Based ECUs

We are currently able to download but not flash back:

*H8 Hitachi Based ECUs

**If I'm missing any Processor Family post them up so I can update it

I don't know exactly which Stratus Years that are actually flashable but:

* If your car is a Cali Spec:
- Has 2 pre-cats and 2 O2 sensors(Front and Back of the engine) before them on the exhaust manifold.
- Your odds are that you have a currently supported Processor that we can Flash.

* If your car is Fed Spec:
- Has no pre-cats and no O2 sensors in the exhaust manifold.
- Might have a Processor which currently supports only downloading the ROM. But still not flashable

If your one of the happy lucky people your in for a treat and some fun.

How does it work?
The ECU uses a memory called EEPROM which stands for electrically erasable programmable read-only memory. It was implemented in some early model cars in 1994 and eventually was standardized in 1996 on the OBDII which is the current standard on all our vehicles. This is a system requirement for the sole purpose of emission control and updates. Not to make us more happy.

The ECU Flash program communicates with the Processor of the ECU to request a dump of the content of the EEPROM through the OBDII communication port. The software receives the data which is the ROM and allows us to modify it and change it as we see fit. Then once we are done doing changes, the software allows us to contact the Processor and activates the ECU to allow is to Flash into the EEPROM the rom we just modified. Once your done flashing the ROM into the EEPROM it will stay in the memory for the life and existence of your ECU no matter how many times you remove your battery from your car.

Its called "Flashing" because the way the memory chip works is like the film of a camera. When light hits it, there is a chemical reaction that cause it to capture the image, then it goes through a process to retain that image. The same thing happens with this chip but in electronic form. Once its developed like the film it never changes unless you damage it physically, in this case with this chip electronically (short circuit or damaging the chip physically, but they can also be replaced wink.gif )

How does the ECU Flash knows where the data is and modifies it?

The ECU Flash uses a file called a definition file. This file is created by a developer that knows where the data we need to modify is located in the ROM. Once the software knows where the data is and what it is, it allows us to view the data in a format we can understand (%, Air/Fuel Ratios, etc). The software uses this information and then through a mathematical process which it calculates everytime you open and modify the data. It translates it back and forth between modifications back into binary code which you can flash back into your ECU's EEPROM.

Engine Tuning Theory
"To tune an engine effectively, you will need to understand the theory of Volumetric efficiency, burn rate, spark advance, air/fuel ratios, temperature, air-pressure, detonation, and fuels" (Jeff Hartman, 2003)


Here is a video from Innovate Motorsports which talks about their LM-1, Tuning Theory and others. ( Innovate Videos :: Engine Tuning Resources )

Volumetric Efficiency:
Is the ability of an engine to introduce air into the combustion chamber. The more air we can introduce into the chamber the more fuel we can inject and generate more power. Peak torque occurs at the engine speed and loading at which an engine is most efficient at ingesting air into the cylinders. Therefore, peak torque is also peak volumetric efficiency or VE.

Fuel Burn Rate:
Is the rate at which the Fuel Burns inside the chamber. It has been studied and found that the fuel burns the fastest at 11.1:1 (AFR).

Spark Advance:
Is which is optimally timed to achieve best torque by producing peak cylinder pressure at about +/-15 degrees ATDC (after top dead center piston position), increase octane requirements by a half to three-quarters of an octane number per degree of advance. Spark advance also increases cylinder pressure and allows more time for detonation to occur.

Air/Fuel Ratios (AFR):
Ideally, air/fuel ratio should vary not only according to loading but also according to the amount of air present in a particular cylinder at a particular time (cylinder VE). Richer AFR combat knock by the intercooling effect of the cooling heat of vaporization of liquid fuels and a set of related factors. The volatility of fuels affect not only octane number requirements but drivability in general. The chemically ideal AFR mixture, at which all air and gasoline are consumed in combustion occurs with 14.68 parts air and 1 part fuel, which is rounded to 14.7. This ratio is referred to as "stoichiometric" or "stoich".

At high loading and wide-open throttle. richer mixtures give better power by making sure that all air molecules in the combustion chamber have fuel present to burn. At wide-open throttle, where the objective is maximum pwer, all four-cycle gasoline engines require mixtures that fall between lean and rich best torque, in the 11.5 to 13.3 gasoline range. Since this best torque mixture spread narrows at higher speeds, a good goal for naturally aspirated engines is 12.0 to 12.5, perhaps richer if fuel is being used for combustion cooling in a turbo/supercharger engine.

Typical mixtures giving best drivability are in the range of 13.0 to 14.5 gasoline-air mixtures, depending on speed and loading.

Temperature:
Inlet air temperature increases octane requirements by 0.5 octane number per 10 degree increase. Temperature affects fuel performance in several ways. Colder air is denser than hotter air, raising cylinder pressure. Colder air inhibits fuel vaporization. But hotter air directly raises combustion temperatures, which increases the possibility of knock.

Air-Pressure:
Increasing altitude reduces octane number requirements by about 1.5 octane numbers per 1,000 feet above see level.

Detonation:

When an engine knocks or detonates, combustion begins normally with the flame front burning smoothly through the air/fuel mixture. But under some circumstances, as pressure and temperatures rise as combustion proceeds, at a certain point, remaining end gases explode violently all at once rather than burning evenly. This is detonation, also referred to by mechanics and tuners as knock or spark knock.

Preignition: It is another form of abnormal combustion in which the air/fuel mixture is ignited by something other than the spark plug, including glowing combustion chamber deposits, sharp edges or burrs on the head or block, or even overheated spark-plugs electrode. Heavy, prolonged knock can generate hot spots that cause surface ignition, which is the most damaging side-effect of knock. Surface ignition that occurs prior to the plug firing is called preignition, and surface ignition occuring after the plug fires is called post ignition. The preignition opposes the pressure generated by the piston resulting in power loss, engine roughness, and severe heating of the piston crown.
* Understanding Detonation is extremely important. To learn and gain more information please click on the following link Detonation vs. Pre-Ignition



Some Sources
*How to Tune and Modify Engine Management Systems (Motorbooks Workshop) by Jeff Hartman
*Car Hacks and Mods for Dummies by David Vespremi
*Engine Management: Advanced Tuning by Greg Banish
LogicGate
Hope this starts helping you guys understand better what I do and what we all will be doing when tuning our cars. Ask questions, request information (not related to my tunes or propitiatory, this is not a sale thread too) and work out problems you might be having.
crossintothesebring
That is a very good write there, although all this information seems kind of intimidating but you have given me some good things to read while i work the midnight shifts. biggrin.gif
AcesLA07
is the mitsulogger necessary? i thought the ecuflash program could do everything?
LogicGate
[quote][quote name='acesla07' date='Jan 31 2008, 03:11 PM' post='412508']
is the mitsulogger necessary? i thought the ecuflash program could do everything?
[/quote]

Yes you need a datalogger software like Mitsulogger which is free and so far extremely good. ECU Flash is only a ROM binary modifier/editing that supports upload and download of ROMs to the Processors listed above only. Also if you modify the Fuel Maps you need to have a Wideband O2 sensor to log that the air/fuel ratios applied into the Fuel Maps are safe and effective doing what you want the Fuel Map to do.

I don't want to complicate things, so I will explain later on how to calculate the Fuel Maps with data from the Wideband O2 sensor.

I'm sorry for posting so much information in one post. I was just trying to cover as much of the essentials in one post. Take your time reading it, specially the tutorials and videos that way at least you understand how the software work and how to use it.

I don't have a file hosting server, but if you guys have a reliable hosting server I can post all my definitions in a zip file along with all the standard roms so you guys can at least open a rom and see the options. Then relate the information I have here to the information and settings through the ECU Flash.

Still at least just take a moment, relax and just read through the post taking your time. Download the free softwares and ask questions. All the information here relates to everything in ECU Flash so feel free to ask questions, there is not dumb questions. Also if for any reason I don't know the answer, will just research it and get it answered.
stratr/t190
I think this is a more suitable thread for my question about forced induction/nitrous set up..
I pretty much need the AEM UEGO or an E-manage and hook them up to my laptop to datalog the readings?
How about the LC-1 Wideband Oxygen Sensor / Controller from tactrix? Or di i still need a stand alone system?
Which one would be best for my set up the AEM UEGO, an E-manage, or the LC-1 Wideband Oxygen Sensor / Controller from tactrix?
Sorry about all the questions im just trying to have everything clear.
LogicGate
QUOTE (stratr/t190 @ Jan 31 2008, 07:54 PM) *
I think this is a more suitable thread for my question about forced induction/nitrous set up..
I pretty much need the AEM UEGO or an E-manage and hook them up to my laptop to datalog the readings?
How about the LC-1 Wideband Oxygen Sensor / Controller from tactrix? Or di i still need a stand alone system?
Which one would be best for my set up the AEM UEGO, an E-manage, or the LC-1 Wideband Oxygen Sensor / Controller from tactrix?
Sorry about all the questions im just trying to have everything clear.


The LC-1 Wideband Oxygen Sensor is a great system to log the AFR (air/fuel ratio). But the AEM UEGO has a gauge that is more practical and also gives you the ability to do logging through the pc using one of the dataloggers I posted.

So for FI as in boost conditions like SDS and Turbo you will need a E-Manage to tune the Fuel and Timing Maps. Our V6 engines ECUs don't have reference for boost conditions. But if you are a 4 cyl. owner you can Flash the EVO8 Rom into your ECU and run boost conditions on your car just like an Evo 8.

Now for Nitrous its different than with SDS and Turbo. We are technically shooting into the cylinder a chemical that brakes down into high levels of oxygen while at the same time lowers the temperature of the oxygen inside the chamber. Most people just make sure that they are using a wet kit with a controller to control the mix. I know we can control at least the timing under the nitrous, but not sure about the Fuel because of the external controller. The external controller usually has many protection features that automatically protect the engine from failures, where the ECU will not have the ability to do since it was not designed to work with any form of force induction.

Let me know what setup your interested in running so I can find out what we can do with ECU Flash for that setup. But be aware that unlike in N/A (Naturally Aspirated) you can't advance timing. In Force Induction (FI) you actually need to remove timing in the ignition to minimize knock to 0 and blowing your head gaskets. I know a few things, but I want to make sure first before I give you a definitive answer.

Note:
Any tune done to increase the HP/TQ on a Naturally Aspirated engine will not work under Boost conditions or Nitrous. They are two (N/A and FI) completely different worlds, like is the ocean from the sky. Both have oxygen, but still different environments.
stratr/t190
Well I am interested in running a 50 shot NX WET kit with a rpm window switch and hopefully a progressive controller. Im gonna start with a 35 shot and work my way up to 50, if i get it tuned for nitrous and get other goodies for my engine i might work my way up to 75. Now i have heard that for 35-55 shot you dont have to change the timing, however for 65-75 shot it is recommended to retard the time by 1 or 2 degrees, now i know that your tune will advance the timing and its not for nitrous.

It's gonna probably take me a little while to get all the stuff for the nitrous kit and getting it installed, right now i have pretty much the basic NX wet kit, which is the fuel solenoid, nitrous solenoid, braided lines, WOT switch, 10lb bottle and wiring. So what Im trying to get now is the rpm window switch, progressive controller, bottle heater, bottle pressure gauge, etc.

So for now i would like to do the tune for N/A, since your gonna be down here in south florida, and after a while when im ready for the nitrous, i could drive up to orlando have you retune it for nitrous.
adio405
What kind of gains could we expect for the 4 cyl (stock)?

I went through most your threads at 3g a while ago but do you have an idea of what kind of gains there are? I know every car will be different just curious as to what you have seen pertaining to WHP increases. Highs and Lows?
LogicGate
QUOTE (adio405 @ Jan 31 2008, 10:14 PM) *
What kind of gains could we expect for the 4 cyl (stock)?

I went through most your threads at 3g a while ago but do you have an idea of what kind of gains there are? I know every car will be different just curious as to what you have seen pertaining to WHP increases. Highs and Lows?


Well my testers for the Baseline version for the 4cyl. haven't taken the cars to a Dyno yet. But I can safely say that its at least +10whp/wtq. Most of the 4 cyl. costumers report a pretty good and big difference but they haven't been taken to a dyno to measure the new gains. Its been tested all over the U.S and other international locations with wideband O2 sensors and lots lots of datalogging. Most of the results have been very consistent, where the variations where related to the driver (distance, times, speeds, shifting, etc).

The Baseline has been tested as throughly as the V6 version, just that the V6 people tend to take their cars more into the Dyno than the 4cyl. crew. Originally the Baseline started as a base from the V6 variant on a 2g Stratus around my area, since I work on the baseline personally for a month and then they go out for testing by the testers.

Let me know if you guys have any questions or concerns
adio405
QUOTE (LogicGate @ Feb 1 2008, 09:39 AM) *
Well my testers for the Baseline version for the 4cyl. haven't taken the cars to a Dyno yet. But I can safely say that its at least +10whp/wtq. Most of the 4 cyl. costumers report a pretty good and big difference but they haven't been taken to a dyno to measure the new gains. Its been tested all over the U.S and other international locations with wideband O2 sensors and lots lots of datalogging. Most of the results have been very consistent, where the variations where related to the driver (distance, times, speeds, shifting, etc).

The Baseline has been tested as throughly as the V6 version, just that the V6 people tend to take their cars more into the Dyno than the 4cyl. crew. Originally the Baseline started as a base from the V6 variant on a 2g Stratus around my area, since I work on the baseline personally for a month and then they go out for testing by the testers.

Let me know if you guys have any questions or concerns


If you don't charge me for the tune or give me a discount i'll be a tester and dyno my car before and after biggrin.gif just throwing it out there.
LogicGate
QUOTE (adio405 @ Feb 1 2008, 09:50 AM) *
If you don't charge me for the tune or give me a discount i'll be a tester and dyno my car before and after biggrin.gif just throwing it out there.


Send me a PM. I will need to gather some information from your area and your car before making a decision. Also let me know if your engine internals are stock (everything down to the spark plugs and wires) wink.gif


Edited:
I didn't notice in which thread I was until now. We can discuss my tunes and other information related to them on a different thread. Lets try to keep this thread about what you guys need to know for you guys to be able to work on your cars. So in that mind set, I think the 4 cyl. can produce more than 10whp/wtq with a tune without a doubt in stock form. There are things you can do to the engine to improve its performance even further.
AcesLA07
please tell me MitsuLogger works on Vista.....please oh please...I downloaded it and its not working right. I'll re-download it later but just checking.

*it does work for vista. i fixed it.
LogicGate
QUOTE (acesla07 @ Feb 1 2008, 01:09 PM) *
please tell me MitsuLogger works on Vista.....please oh please...I downloaded it and its not working right. I'll re-download it later but just checking.

*it does work for vista. i fixed it.


We used to have problems with the older FTDI drivers because they where still not released for Vista. With the last version of ECU Flash they released with it the drivers for the FTDI in Vista properly modified for the Tactrix cable. So far the tactrix cable drivers have been updated accordingly to work for XP/Vista. Software wise each of them show the requirements so if your missing some libraries, you can just download them from microsoft's website like the .Net Framework versions.

LogicGate
This is a how-to make your own O2 Sim for diagnostic purposes
Oxygen Sensor Simulator

It uses a 555 timer to generate/simulate the waveforms of the O2 sensor. Also the schematic can be updated so you can use a potentiometer to modify oscillation and voltage peaks. I hope you guys enjoy it.

Notice to everyone
I know normally everyone drives your cars and assumes that because there is no CEL the O2 sensors are fine. When you notice that your car is using more gas than what it used to use before, that is a sign for you to check the O2 sensors readings. Our O2 sensors have a life expectancy of an est. 100,000 miles, but that doesn't mean that they will be working like new until then. They gradually start slowing their oscillation until they die (the ECU throws an CEL). So add it to your list in the tune-up list, otherwise you will slowly pay for it without knowing ($$$ gas).
crossintothesebring
QUOTE (LogicGate @ Feb 2 2008, 06:33 PM) *
This is a how-to make your own O2 Sim for diagnostic purposes
Oxygen Sensor Simulator

It uses a 555 timer to generate/simulate the waveforms of the O2 sensor. Also the schematic can be updated so you can use a potentiometer to modify oscillation and voltage peaks. I hope you guys enjoy it.

Notice to everyone
I know normally everyone drives your cars and assumes that because there is no CEL the O2 sensors are fine. When you notice that your car is using more gas than what it used to use before, that is a sign for you to check the O2 sensors readings. Our O2 sensors have a life expectancy of an est. 100,000 miles, but that doesn't mean that they will be working like new until then. They gradually start slowing their oscillation until they die (the ECU throws an CEL). So add it to your list in the tune-up list, otherwise you will slowly pay for it without knowing ($$$ gas).


Out of curiousity is there a way that we can check the sensor readings to see the health of our o2 sensors?, because i am one of those people who has been having crappy gas mileage here lately. my normal is around 25-27 MPG, over the past few months i am only getting 20-22MPG. thanks man
Turbo Addict
QUOTE (crossintothesebring @ Feb 3 2008, 07:42 AM) *
Out of curiousity is there a way that we can check the sensor readings to see the health of our o2 sensors?, because i am one of those people who has been having crappy gas mileage here lately. my normal is around 25-27 MPG, over the past few months i am only getting 20-22MPG. thanks man

Yea consider yourself lucky. $20 at $3.19 premium got me 2 days of normal commute to college, work, and one trip to a mall which is only about 35 miles total back and forth sad.gif. No check engine lights and my car has 89K on it.
Pearl01stratcpe
QUOTE (crossintothesebring @ Feb 3 2008, 07:42 AM) *
Out of curiousity is there a way that we can check the sensor readings to see the health of our o2 sensors?, because i am one of those people who has been having crappy gas mileage here lately. my normal is around 25-27 MPG, over the past few months i am only getting 20-22MPG. thanks man

It must be something with the gas... Ive been getting worse gas mileage lately.
crossintothesebring
QUOTE (Pearl01stratcpe @ Feb 3 2008, 10:33 AM) *
It must be something with the gas... Ive been getting worse gas mileage lately.


tell you what guys it seem like here lately something has been up with all of this crappy mileage we all seem to be gettin...
Turbo Addict
QUOTE (crossintothesebring @ Feb 3 2008, 12:38 PM) *
tell you what guys it seem like here lately something has been up with all of this crappy mileage we all seem to be gettin...

Its a government scam...ph34r.gif
nate_0022
I get crappy gas mileage to, usually 300 miles to a tank, so around 18mpg.
LogicGate
QUOTE (crossintothesebring @ Feb 3 2008, 04:42 AM) *
Out of curiousity is there a way that we can check the sensor readings to see the health of our o2 sensors?, because i am one of those people who has been having crappy gas mileage here lately. my normal is around 25-27 MPG, over the past few months i am only getting 20-22MPG. thanks man



QUOTE (Turbo Addict @ Feb 3 2008, 08:21 AM) *
Yea consider yourself lucky. $20 at $3.19 premium got me 2 days of normal commute to college, work, and one trip to a mall which is only about 35 miles total back and forth sad.gif. No check engine lights and my car has 89K on it.


I will be installing a new O2 sensor soon. I will work on configuration to datalog the sensors to be able to view the peaks properly. I will then compare the logs between a new and old O2 sensor to determine the variance. I will post up the results, since this is a very common problem, where people are having low MPG when the problem is the O2 sensors not working properly.

Again I promise I will post up the results and what I find.
crossintothesebring
Thank you Alfred, we greatly appreciate what you do for us!!!!! biggrin.gif
LogicGate
QUOTE (crossintothesebring @ Feb 3 2008, 11:06 AM) *
Thank you Alfred, we greatly appreciate what you do for us!!!!! biggrin.gif


tongue.gif Na! Its for all of us and everyone! I need to do this also for the work I do (tuning service stuff), so why not share it. wink.gif
LogicGate
Got the results and its actually easier than expected.

Method I

Things you will need:

* Tactrix Cable
* ScanTech OBDII Software

You can locate them using the links I posted on the first post.
1. Turn the car "ON" and let it warm up
2. Open ScanTech software and connect Tactrix cable
3. Activate software to "Connect"
4. Click on "View" then click on "Scope"
5. Select to view the O2 Sensor XXXX (Select O2 Sensor you want to check Example B1S1 which stands for Bank 1 Sensor 1)
6. At the Top Right left corner there is 2 black arrows. Click on the directional arrow towards the right until the top turns to 8x.
7. Here you will be able to see the voltage variations (oscillations) from the Sensor. Its not super fast, but it works.
8. Rev the car slowly and fast while monitoring the "Scope Screen"
9. Check the "MIN" and "MAX"
10. When the car is at operating temperature (190 - 220) the voltage will be sloping up and down. While IDLEing you should see it oscillate around 0.2 to 0.4. When pressing the throttle down all the way 0.5 to 0.9. When the O2 sensor starts to go bad it will oscillate closer to 0.45. If the car is warm and the readings are stuck in a reading that means its dead.

Method II

Other way of Testing O2 Sensors:

Testing O2 sensors that are installed

The engine must first be fully warm. If you have a defective
thermostat, this test may not be possible due to a minimum
temperature required for closed loop operation. Attach the
positive lead of a high impedence DC voltmeter to the Oxygen
sensor output wire. This wire should remain attached to the
computer. You will have to back probe the connection or use
a jumper wire to get access. The negative lead should be
attached to a good clean ground on the engine block or
accessory bracket. Cheap voltmeters will not give accurate
results because they load down the circuit and absorb the
voltage that they are attempting to measure. A acceptable
value is 1,000,000 ohms/volt or more on the DC voltage.
Most (if not all) digital voltmeters meet this need. Few
(if any) non-powered analog (needle style) voltmeters do.
Check the specs for your meter to find out. Set your meter
to look for 1 volt DC. Many late model cars use a heated
O2 sensor. These have either two or three wires instead of
one. Heated sensors will have 12 volts on one lead, ground
on the other, and the sensor signal on the third. If you have
two or three wires, use a 15 or higher volt scale on the meter
until you know which is the sensor output wire.

When you turn the key on, do not start the engine. You should
see a change in voltage on the meter in most late model cars. If
not, check your connections. Next, check your leads to make sure
you won't wrap up any wires in the belts, etc. then start the
engine. You should run the engine above 2000 rpm for two
minutes to warm the O2 sensor and try to get into closed loop.
Closed loop operation is indicated by the sensor showing several
cross counts per second. It may help to rev the engine between
idle and about 3000 rpm several times. The computer recognizes
the sensor as hot and active once there are several cross counts.

You are looking for voltage to go above and below 0.45 volts.
If you see less than 0.2 and more than 0.7 volts and the value
changes rapidly, you are through, your sensor is good. If not,
is it steady high (> 0.45) near 0.45 or steady low (< 0.45).
If the voltage is near the middle, you may not be hot yet. Run
the engine above 2000 rpm again. If the reading is steady low,
add richness by partially closing the choke or adding some propane
through the air intake. Be very careful if you work with any
extra gasoline, you can easily be burned or have an explosion.
If the voltage now rises above 0.7 to 0.9, and you can change it
at will by changing the extra fuel, the O2 sensor is usually good.

If the voltage is steady high, create a vacuum leak. Try pulling
the PCV valve out of it's hose and letting air enter. You can
also use the power brake vacuum supply hose. If this drives the
voltage to 0.2 to 0.3 or less and you can control it at will by
opening and closing the vacuum leak, the sensor is usually good.

If you are not able to make a change either way, stop the engine,
unhook the sensor wire from the computer harness, and reattach
your voltmeter to the sensor output wire. Repeat the rich and
lean steps. If you can't get the sensor voltage to change, and
you have a good sensor and ground connection, try heating it once
more. Repeat the rich and lean steps. If still no voltage or
fixed voltage, you have a bad sensor.

If you are not getting a voltage and the car has been running
rich lately, the sensor may be carbon fouled. It is sometimes
possible to clean a sensor in the car. Do this by unplugging
the sensor harness, warming up the engine, and creating a lean
condition at about 2000 rpm for 1 or 2 minutes. Create a big
enough vacuum leak so that the engine begins to slow down.
The extra heat will clean it off if possible. If not, it
was dead anyway, no loss. In either case, fix the cause of the
rich mixture and retest. If you don't, the new sensor will
fail.

Testing O2 sensors on the workbench.

Use a high impedence DC voltmeter as above. Clamp the sensor in
a vice, or use a plier or vice-grip to hold it. Clamp your
negative voltmeter lead to the case, and the positive to the
output wire. Use a propane torch set to high and the inner blue
flame tip to heat the fluted or perforated area of the sensor.
You should see a DC voltage of at least 0.6 within 20 seconds.
If not, most likely cause is open circuit internally or lead
fouling. If OK so far, remove from flame. You should see a
drop to under 0.1 volt within 4 seconds. If not likely silicone
fouled. If still OK, heat for two full minutes and watch for
drops in voltage. Sometimes, the internal connections will open
up under heat. This is the same a loose wire and is a failure.
If the sensor is OK at this point, and will switch from high to
low quickly as you move the flame, the sensor is good. Bear in
mind that good or bad is relative, with port fuel injection
needing faster information than carbureted systems.

ANY O2 sensor that will generate 0.9 volts or more when heated,
show 0.1 volts or less within one second of flame removal, AND
pass the two minute heat test is good regardless of age. When
replacing a sensor, don't miss the opportunity to use the test
above on the replacement. This will calibrate your evaluation
skills and save you money in the future. There is almost always
*no* benefit in replacing an oxygen sensor that will pass the
test in the first line of this paragraph.
adio405
QUOTE (Pearl01stratcpe @ Feb 3 2008, 10:33 AM) *
It must be something with the gas... Ive been getting worse gas mileage lately.


Thats crazy I've been getting around 50 less miles to my tank. I thought it was the timing issue but its still here even after everything is fixed.

I think it aliens!
crossintothesebring
thank you Alfred for the write-up, that is extremly useful!!!!
LogicGate
QUOTE (crossintothesebring @ Feb 4 2008, 05:52 PM) *
thank you Alfred for the write-up, that is extremly useful!!!!


No problem smile.gif

Also for those that have been asking me how to download the ROM, where to connectors are located, etc, etc... Please download the ECU Flash Tutorial. It has pictures of where the plugs are and instructions on how to download your ROM. You can also watch the video I posted, it will show you a step by step on what you need to do.

Have fun!
crossintothesebring
QUOTE (LogicGate @ Feb 5 2008, 04:52 PM) *
No problem smile.gif

Also for those that have been asking me how to download the ROM, where to connectors are located, etc, etc... Please download the ECU Flash Tutorial. It has pictures of where the plugs are and instructions on how to download your ROM. You can also watch the video I posted, it will show you a step by step on what you need to do.

Have fun!


I am getting so excited about this, i finally got my email confirmation today saying my cable shipped!!!!!
LogicGate
Here is a little quick How-To for using Mitsulogger and doing 2nd gear pulls:

MITSULOGGER:

1. Download software and unzip. It doesn't need to be installed. You can start the program out from the unzipped folder. I highly recommend to Copy/Paste a Shortcut to desktop.

2. Install ECU Flash and make sure the drivers are installed.

3. Connect cable to PC/Laptop

4. Open Mitsulogger and make sure there is no check mark on "Demo Mode"

5. Connect cable to OBDII port on car (below the dash on the driver's side)

6. Start the car and start the datalogger. Monitor to see if the RPMs match the RPMs in Mitsulogger. If so, your good to go, but if not stop the datalogger and restart it again.

Once the datalogger software is running properly your ready to go for a drive:

2nd Gear Pull AT:
1. Make sure the car is warmed up to normal operational temperature.

2. Shit to 2nd gear while the car is still. At this point start the mitsulogger software and start datalogging.

3. Press on the gas all the way to the end to launch your car all the way to redline or speed limit.

4. Drive Normal until you can stop at a location and stop the datalogger.

2nd Gear Pull M/T:
1. Make sure the car is warmed up to normal operational temperature.

2. Start the datalogger while the car is in neutral.

3. Start driving on 1st and shift to 2nd from the lowest rpm possible for you. Once on 2nd gear hit WOT(wide open throttle) until redline or speed limit.

4. Drive Normal until you can stop at a location and stop the datalogger.

The most important part is that you do this safely. If you try to operate the software while driving you can have an accident. !!!!So Safety First!!!
Stratogy
Is ECU Flash supported on PPC Macs? I went to put it on my laptop but it won't open, saying the program is not supported on the system. I tried it on my Intel-based desktop and it works fine, but I can't exactly put my desktop in the passenger seat. This is really bumming me out, I was getting really excited reading all the good things about this. I seriously think I'm getting depressed that I can't do this upgrade because of such a little overlooked detail.
wiseoracle
QUOTE (Stratogy @ Feb 7 2008, 04:31 PM) *
Is ECU Flash supported on PPC Macs? I went to put it on my laptop but it won't open, saying the program is not supported on the system. I tried it on my Intel-based desktop and it works fine, but I can't exactly put my desktop in the passenger seat. This is really bumming me out, I was getting really excited reading all the good things about this. I seriously think I'm getting depressed that I can't do this upgrade because of such a little overlooked detail.


If you actually read the website's details you would of found this out:
QUOTE
Windows 2000/XP Laptop with USB port for openport cable, or serial port for Accessport cable.
Logging: Cobb Accessport or Openport cable
Flashing:
non-dbw subaru:Openport 1.0-1.2 cable
dbw subaru: Openport 1.2 or 1.3M cable
Mitsubishi: Openport 1.3M cable
LogicGate
QUOTE (Stratogy @ Feb 7 2008, 03:31 PM) *
Is ECU Flash supported on PPC Macs? I went to put it on my laptop but it won't open, saying the program is not supported on the system. I tried it on my Intel-based desktop and it works fine, but I can't exactly put my desktop in the passenger seat. This is really bumming me out, I was getting really excited reading all the good things about this. I seriously think I'm getting depressed that I can't do this upgrade because of such a little overlooked detail.


They have a version of ECU Flash that works on Mac OSX (x86/x64). Try downloading that version.

Link to download ECU Flash for Mac:
http://openecu.org/downloads/ecuflash_134_osx.dmg
Stratogy
QUOTE (LogicGate @ Feb 7 2008, 06:16 PM) *
They have a version of ECU Flash that works on Mac OSX (x86/x64). Try downloading that version.

Link to download ECU Flash for Mac:
http://openecu.org/downloads/ecuflash_134_osx.dmg

That's the version I downloaded. I tried it a couple times. But I guess the program is too new for them to have bothered with the PPC processor structure. So I guess I'll either have to find a friend who'll let me borrow their laptop or find a way to pay for you to come up to PA and work your magic. Although I doubt that'll happen.
LogicGate
QUOTE (Stratogy @ Feb 7 2008, 04:30 PM) *
That's the version I downloaded. I tried it a couple times. But I guess the program is too new for them to have bothered with the PPC processor structure. So I guess I'll either have to find a friend who'll let me borrow their laptop or find a way to pay for you to come up to PA and work your magic. Although I doubt that'll happen.


I'm not an Mac User but I think I remember they made a software to run windows software in Mac that will run under the PPC. It might be something to look into.
Silver03RT
QUOTE (Stratogy @ Feb 7 2008, 05:31 PM) *
Is ECU Flash supported on PPC Macs? I went to put it on my laptop but it won't open, saying the program is not supported on the system. I tried it on my Intel-based desktop and it works fine, but I can't exactly put my desktop in the passenger seat. This is really bumming me out, I was getting really excited reading all the good things about this. I seriously think I'm getting depressed that I can't do this upgrade because of such a little overlooked detail.

You could always go to a rental place and rent a laptop for a week or so. That's what I'm doing anyways.
LogicGate
QUOTE (Silver03RT @ Feb 7 2008, 09:49 PM) *
You could always go to a rental place and rent a laptop for a week or so. That's what I'm doing anyways.


Also I have 2 old laptops runing nlite versions of Windows XP Pro. They costed me around $200 dollars since they are really old. So anyway, I only run on those laptops the ECU Flash, dataloggers, ScanTech and other car software I constantly use. One of the laptops is strictly for the Garage work.

Old laptops with around 1GHz work flawlessly for this softwares and they come with COM Ports that you don't get anymore with high end laptops. wink.gif

P.S. If your doing this, I HIGHLY recommend you build an nLite Windows XP version to remove all the crap that you don't need from Windows. I have a Windows 2003 Server nLite stripped version that I use for testing (from eXperience) so if someone wants it, feel free to contact me.
Stratogy
QUOTE (LogicGate @ Feb 7 2008, 09:11 PM) *
I'm not an Mac User but I think I remember they made a software to run windows software in Mac that will run under the PPC. It might be something to look into.

Now why didn't I think of that? Thanks. Now I got ECU Flash and ScanTech working, I just need to download the .Net Framework to get MitsuLogger working. Then I just need to get a cable.

Quick related question: Is there a particular version of MitsuLogger that you recommend? (v1, v1.5a, v1.6b) Or will any work fine?
LogicGate
QUOTE (Stratogy @ Feb 11 2008, 10:31 AM) *
Now why didn't I think of that? Thanks. Now I got ECU Flash and ScanTech working, I just need to download the .Net Framework to get MitsuLogger working. Then I just need to get a cable.

Quick related question: Is there a particular version of MitsuLogger that you recommend? (v1, v1.5a, v1.6b) Or will any work fine?


They all work well. The latest version is always the best, but they all datalog equally as well (maybe the latest version has more items mapped to datalog, but I can always send you the item mapping file if anything). Just get the one that works for you, if the latest version works for you then get that one.

Did you try ScanTech?? Thats such an awesome program, I love it. You buy a cable and get hundreds of dollars worth of functionality. People have no idea until they actually get the cable.
steadly2004
QUOTE (LogicGate @ Feb 11 2008, 10:10 AM) *
They all work well. The latest version is always the best, but they all datalog equally as well (maybe the latest version has more items mapped to datalog, but I can always send you the item mapping file if anything). Just get the one that works for you, if the latest version works for you then get that one.

Did you try ScanTech?? Thats such an awesome program, I love it. You buy a cable and get hundreds of dollars worth of functionality. People have no idea until they actually get the cable.

Scantech FTW!~

I have it, its easier to read fuel trims, IMO. And great for reading "pending codes", and whether or not your emissions tests have passed after the ECU resetting/codes deleting or whetever.
LogicGate
QUOTE (steadly2004 @ Feb 11 2008, 01:16 PM) *
Scantech FTW!~

I have it, its easier to read fuel trims, IMO. And great for reading "pending codes", and whether or not your emissions tests have passed after the ECU resetting/codes deleting or whetever.


Damn man, where have you been? I also think the same way as you do about ScanTech. Its just a awesome program, its a MUST have software with the OpenPort cable.
adio405
Quick question.

If your just planning on doing the baseline tune w/o using the wideband sensor, Is this all you need?

- Tactrix Cable
- ECU flash program - openecu.org
- Mitsulogger
steadly2004
QUOTE (LogicGate @ Feb 11 2008, 12:42 PM) *
Damn man, where have you been? I also think the same way as you do about ScanTech. Its just a awesome program, its a MUST have software with the OpenPort cable.

HA, I'm around. I haven't had much to do with my car since I blew the engine. The block has been in the shop since December. Hopefully they'll be done with it soon. What do you know about tuning with methanol injection?

Anyway, I'm thinking of doing the manual tranny swap when I put the new engine in so it will all be in one shot... I dunno. I figure it would be better to tune it with the EVO rom, I just need to come up with some extra cash for the tranny and everything else.
LogicGate
QUOTE (steadly2004 @ Feb 11 2008, 05:22 PM) *
HA, I'm around. I haven't had much to do with my car since I blew the engine. The block has been in the shop since December. Hopefully they'll be done with it soon. What do you know about tuning with methanol injection?

Anyway, I'm thinking of doing the manual tranny swap when I put the new engine in so it will all be in one shot... I dunno. I figure it would be better to tune it with the EVO rom, I just need to come up with some extra cash for the tranny and everything else.


Greg is the tranny swap master. The Methanol Injection is good to aid in controlling the temperatures of the air going into the intake. I don't think you need to tune for it other than to make sure its not to much, to little or run out while being used alone for cooling w/o intercooler. With the EVO8 ROM on our cars you can actually install the methanol injection and have it activate only during X conditions since there are some EVO8 functions that we don't use in our cars that can be used for it.
LogicGate
Hey guys can anyone help me here? I need a server to host the definition files for ECU Flash and some rom files so you guys can start play around with.
wiseoracle
QUOTE (LogicGate @ Feb 13 2008, 09:16 AM) *
Hey guys can anyone help me here? I need a server to host the definition files for ECU Flash and some rom files so you guys can start play around with.


http://www.mediafire.com/

More linkage:
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=f...G=Google+Search
LogicGate
QUOTE (wiseoracle @ Feb 13 2008, 09:55 AM) *


Nice, I never went into mediafire thinking they charged for it. I'm updating the first post with the link to download the rommetadata zipped folder with tons of definitions and a few extra stuff nobody wants you to see. Also I'll post the link for the roms too!

THNX!!!!

Edited:
Just added the links for the definitions and the roms in the Section with the Tutorial How to document, video, etc.
LogicGate
Has anyone been playing around with any of this stuff?
crossintothesebring
I have been a little bit but I am more trying to understand everything and learn it, it is definetly some complex stuff but cool at the same time!!!
LogicGate
Updated the first post with direct links to download Mitsulogger and ScanTech. Enjoy!!!!
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