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> PASSENGER WINDOW DOES NOT WORK, 2004 Dodge Stratus R/T 3L V6
Vic 2137
post Jul 27 2011, 11:28 PM
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Okay, so most of the things that I ran across in the forums consist of people having their window locks accidentally turned on, or the track not being greased.
This is my problem.


So I go to roll up my window after hanging out with some friends in a parking lot, and at first, it didn't want to go up. But I tried it again and it went right up.
It hasn't worked since.

There are no blown fuses, the Lock is not enabled, the switch still has power (all the lights dim when I try to use the passenger switch) and the master switch doesn't roll it up/down either.

So far I have replaced the motor/regulator and that was not the problem. Shouldve probably checked before I tore the other one out.. lol

I ordered a new switch from the dealership.
Also not the problem.

I'm not really sure where else to turn.
Anyone have any kind of similar issues?

I'm stumped. :/


Once again it's a 2004 Dodge Stratus R/T with the 3.0

Thanks guys.
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Centurin
post Jul 28 2011, 01:56 AM
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QUOTE (Vic 2137 @ Jul 28 2011, 02:28 AM) *
(all the lights dim when I try to use the passenger switch)


I would start there. There may be a short or some other wiring issue.
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Vic 2137
post Jul 29 2011, 10:27 PM
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QUOTE (Centurin @ Jul 28 2011, 04:56 AM) *
I would start there. There may be a short or some other wiring issue.


It does that when i use anything electrical in the car. My alternator was going bad, so I replaced it and it no longer does that. It just signifies power.
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whiteout
post Jul 30 2011, 04:57 AM
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I don't know which window switch you have already replaced, but it sounds like the other one is the problem. The switches work together to complete either the driver's side circuit, or the passenger's side circuit, but if either switch is bad, the circuit won't be completed for the window to work. The passenger switch should be considerably cheaper than the driver side switch

EDIT : If you've already replaced your alternator, and have dimming lights as well still, do you have a big amp in the car or something ? Not that it would affect window performance, but amps beat the crap out of electrical systems no matter what. Just curious

Afterthought : Does your car have an aftermarket alarm system installed in it with the roll up window feature ? If it does, I can guarantee you that's where the problem is.

Good luck

This post has been edited by whiteout: Jul 30 2011, 09:56 AM
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Vic 2137
post Aug 1 2011, 08:57 PM
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QUOTE (whiteout @ Jul 30 2011, 06:57 AM) *
I don't know which window switch you have already replaced, but it sounds like the other one is the problem. The switches work together to complete either the driver's side circuit, or the passenger's side circuit, but if either switch is bad, the circuit won't be completed for the window to work. The passenger switch should be considerably cheaper than the driver side switch

EDIT : If you've already replaced your alternator, and have dimming lights as well still, do you have a big amp in the car or something ? Not that it would affect window performance, but amps beat the crap out of electrical systems no matter what. Just curious

Afterthought : Does your car have an aftermarket alarm system installed in it with the roll up window feature ? If it does, I can guarantee you that's where the problem is.

Good luck


Yeah I replaced the passenger switch. I'm going to see if the dealer will take it back and try the drivers side.

Yes I do have a larger amp, I should probably get a capacitor. But that aside, even when the sound system isn't enabled, the dome lights dim when i try to press the switch down, thats why i feel like the drivers side switch is okay, since the lights dim..

My alarm does have that feature, but I don't have it wired for that.. but come to think of it, all of this happened immediately after i installed by alarm system...

Shit.


But I don't have the alarm connected to the windows in any way..?
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Centurin
post Aug 2 2011, 01:59 AM
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Alarm system wiring can cause all kinds of trouble. Could be a bad ground somewhere too.
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whiteout
post Aug 2 2011, 06:03 AM
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Please excuse the typos, I'm not used to the straight jacket
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You also have to remember the alarm is already screwing with the body control module just by being rigged to lock the doors, and there is no telling how else it could react adversely. Pull the power going to the alarm brain and see if it makes a difference
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Vic 2137
post Aug 2 2011, 06:03 AM
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QUOTE (Centurin @ Aug 2 2011, 04:59 AM) *
Alarm system wiring can cause all kinds of trouble. Could be a bad ground somewhere too.



Should I try running a separate positive & negative lead coming from the drivers switch to the passengers switch?

Assuming that the problem is the wiring, of course.. I'll need to do some testing, but I'm still open to suggestions on what the problem is. Worst comes to worse, I'll disconnect the alarm system.

P.I.T.A (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)

This post has been edited by Vic 2137: Aug 2 2011, 06:04 AM
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whiteout
post Aug 2 2011, 11:49 AM
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Please excuse the typos, I'm not used to the straight jacket
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2001 Stratus R/T
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3.0 V6 / Autostick
Satin White



Do you have a test light/circuit tester you could use on the wiring harness plug once you disconnect it from the switch ? You could use it to try and complete the circuit as the switch would do. If the window works at that point using the tester, the problem is the switch.
You can use little pieces of wire inserted into the plug sockets as extensions for you to be able to connect the wires together briefly (you're only testing, not rewiring the car)

This post has been edited by whiteout: Aug 2 2011, 11:53 AM
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Vic 2137
post Aug 2 2011, 07:37 PM
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QUOTE (whiteout @ Aug 2 2011, 01:49 PM) *
Do you have a test light/circuit tester you could use on the wiring harness plug once you disconnect it from the switch ? You could use it to try and complete the circuit as the switch would do. If the window works at that point using the tester, the problem is the switch.
You can use little pieces of wire inserted into the plug sockets as extensions for you to be able to connect the wires together briefly (you're only testing, not rewiring the car)



Thats a good idea.
I think i'll try that tomorrow.

I just wish that I wouldve not spent all that money for something so stupid
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Vic 2137
post Dec 30 2011, 11:26 AM
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Okay, after finally putting this off for half a year, I found and corrected the problem. Only because my driver's side window stopped working as well. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/Chair.gif)

The problem?

The wiring.


I figured this out when one night, I was going to get out of the car, and I noticed that my previously dead switch had come to life and the leds had turned on once again. I shut the door, and as it was closing, the switch turned off. Just out of curiousity, I opened the door all the way, and tried the passenger window.
Yeah. that was the problem. It worked fine. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

So I removed the door panel, took out the speaker, removed the wiring boot in between the door and the car, and found two broken wires. The black wire, which happened to be the main ground, and the Red/White wire, which was the main power for the passenger switch/motor.( I don't know which, It was cold, and I was excited as hell that I had a properly functioning car again.)

So as a walkthrough,

I replaced the Passenger Window Motor, $25.00
Passenger Window Regulator, $15.00
Passenger Switch, $50.00
Drivers side main switch. $35.00 (Rediculous that the main switch was so much cheaper, but the passenger, I bought from Dodge, then I got smart and got the main switch from ebay)


All in all....
Anyone need any switches?? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

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