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> RPM Issues!! HELP!!
unwind06
post Apr 18 2010, 08:15 PM
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2001 Chrysler Sebring
LXi Coupe
3.0l V6 / Auto
Red



Hi guys! I have a problem with my V6 '01 Sebring for too long now. The situation is quite simple but I couldn't figure out how to fix it. It's becoming very annoying. It happens when the engine is cold, in the morning, after the job, or whenever the engine is cold. The car starts well but the RPM is not dropping enough I guess. It stays around 1700rpm and it only drops when the engine is warmer (let's say 3-5 minutes depending on the weather conditions). So when I put the tranny on Drive, it's like if I were hitting the brake pedal and the gas at the same time. The car just want to go forward, it's insane. A few weeks ago, I tested out something. I went to a straight street next to my place and I just let the car go on it's own. The car went up to 35mph without me touching anything. It even shifted 3 gears by itself! I had let the car on the D position... As soon as the engine is hot, the situation is back to normal.

I notice something else that might be related. Sometimes (I can't figure out a particular situation though...), when I stop at a traffic light or i'm in traffic, the RPM drops just under where it should be so it makes my dash oil light to turn on... as soon as I hit the gas, the light turn back off. And other times, (when I'm not moving), the RPM bounces. It happenned that the engine stopped, not that often though.

It was scanned and no codes were on.

HELP PLEASE!
THANKS A LOOOOOOOT!
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whiteout
post Apr 19 2010, 04:02 AM
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It sounds like the Idle Air Control valve is bad. They work temperature dependantly
Here's a link to one:
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/details/...1QQSIAC254.html
It is located on the throttle body
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BadStratR/T
post Apr 19 2010, 04:38 AM
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2003 Dodge Stratus
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The car should normally idle that hish to warm the engine up. My car does the same but its a 5 speed and almost impossible to stall when it's warming up haha. but as we all know its not good to drive on a cold motor so let the car warm u p before you drive it and you have nothing to worry about.
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unwind06
post Apr 19 2010, 09:01 AM
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2001 Chrysler Sebring
LXi Coupe
3.0l V6 / Auto
Red



QUOTE (whiteout @ Apr 19 2010, 07:02 AM) *
It sounds like the Idle Air Control valve is bad. They work temperature dependantly
Here's a link to one:
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/details/...1QQSIAC254.html
It is located on the throttle body

It's expensive! wow.... :S
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unwind06
post Apr 19 2010, 09:07 AM
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Red



QUOTE (BadStratR/T @ Apr 19 2010, 07:38 AM) *
The car should normally idle that hish to warm the engine up. My car does the same but its a 5 speed and almost impossible to stall when it's warming up haha. but as we all know its not good to drive on a cold motor so let the car warm u p before you drive it and you have nothing to worry about.

I understand but it's still not supposed to be interfering with the driving. I mean, I own other cars and when I start them and I put them on Drive right after, I don't need to slam on the brakes to stop the car! Just the regular pressure on the brake pedal is enough. Mine it seems that I'm on a dragstrip waiting for the green, both brake and gas floored!
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whiteout
post Apr 19 2010, 12:42 PM
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Please excuse the typos, I'm not used to the straight jacket
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Just to give you a better idea of how a AICV works, here's another link:
http://www.se-r.net/engine/about_iacv.html
You'll understand how it related to your problem
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whiteout
post Apr 19 2010, 12:43 PM
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Please excuse the typos, I'm not used to the straight jacket
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double post

This post has been edited by whiteout: Apr 19 2010, 12:44 PM
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TomStratRT04
post Apr 19 2010, 02:18 PM
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Does anyone have a diagram of where the IAC valve is?
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dk89
post Apr 19 2010, 02:50 PM
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I'm assuming by looking at the information in the first link that's for an auto or manual?
My RPM's have been slightly high for cool starts for about a year now, but they always go back down to regular ~800RPMs in a few minutes once warmed up.
My biggest concern I guess would be this: What other problems might occur that I can avoid by replacing this part before it's too late?
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whiteout
post Apr 19 2010, 03:44 PM
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Please excuse the typos, I'm not used to the straight jacket
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QUOTE (dk89 @ Apr 19 2010, 06:50 PM) *
I'm assuming by looking at the information in the first link that's for an auto or manual?
My RPM's have been slightly high for cool starts for about a year now, but they always go back down to regular ~800RPMs in a few minutes once warmed up.
My biggest concern I guess would be this: What other problems might occur that I can avoid by replacing this part before it's too late?

Try spraying a can of Carb and choke cleaner into the throttle body, it will help clean everything in there and MIGHT alieviate a minor problem like this (no promises) even if you run 110 octane fuel in the tank for every fill up (sold at racetracks only) you are GOING to get carbon build up. Clean it out to help the sensors function properly. Just remember, anything piece that moves is eventually going to wear out

Yes, both an auto or manual will have a AICV

This post has been edited by whiteout: Apr 19 2010, 03:46 PM
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Rob K
post Jul 11 2010, 10:51 AM
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3.0 V6 / Auto
White



Hey, I just bought an 02 stratus r/t, with the 3.0, and it kind of does the same thing, only it does not stay idling that high, starts about 1800 when started cold, then immediately goes to where it should idle, 8, 900 or so; but then, only when the engine is cold, in drive, let off the brake and zoom. A lot of brake pressure is needed to stay stopped. But then after the engine has warmed up, let off the brake and it goes off at a nice slow speed as it should..

So just wondering if you ever got yours fixed and what the problem was.. I would say iac, but im not spending 300 dollars on something im not 100% positive it is
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matand
post Jul 12 2010, 07:27 AM
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2001 Dodge Stratus
R/T Coupe
3.0L / Auto-stick
Red



I know the 3.0L engines you can adjust the idle with a screw on the TB its self. There might be rpm indications on the emmision label under the hood or a service manuel would have it. Cold idle is probly 1500rpm and 650rpm for a hot engine. Thats just a guess for rpm ranges. You'll have to adjust accordingly. You might also have to adjust with it in drive, i'm not 100% sure. I just know there is a idle adjustment screw on the TB. I did a TB service to my car and screwed up the idle it was revving 2,000-2,100 at cold and 1,200rpm at operating temp. I had to adjust the idle screw to bring it back to normal and reset the computer.
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unwind06
post Sep 3 2010, 08:06 PM
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2001 Chrysler Sebring
LXi Coupe
3.0l V6 / Auto
Red



QUOTE (Rob K @ Jul 11 2010, 01:51 PM) *
Hey, I just bought an 02 stratus r/t, with the 3.0, and it kind of does the same thing, only it does not stay idling that high, starts about 1800 when started cold, then immediately goes to where it should idle, 8, 900 or so; but then, only when the engine is cold, in drive, let off the brake and zoom. A lot of brake pressure is needed to stay stopped. But then after the engine has warmed up, let off the brake and it goes off at a nice slow speed as it should..

So just wondering if you ever got yours fixed and what the problem was.. I would say iac, but im not spending 300 dollars on something im not 100% positive it is

That's exactly my problem... the idle can be wherever it likes, I don't really care. I just don't want to have to use my two feet to brake the car when it's cold....
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